Special Edition: Oaxaca Consumed

Two weeks in the culinary capital of Mexico and I consumed a lot. Read on for all my recommendations.

I’ve divided it all up: fancy food, everyday eats, bars, cafés and pastries, street food, markets, clubs, honorable mentions, and beyond the food.

FANCY FOOD

Los Amantes
My wedding venue! I ate here about 3 times over the course of two weeks, one of those being a 9-course tasting for the reception menu. You can’t miss this incredible Oaxacan food or the view over Santo Domingo.

Labo Fermento
Where Japanese and Oaxacan traditional foods unite! I can’t get over the black bean miso or the pollo frito.

Levendura de Olla
One of the best meals of my life, perhaps. Excellent service, beautiful atmosphere, and the only place that served a mole I loved. (Sorry, not a mole gal.) Their pulque was unbeatable.

Los Danzantes
Speaking of atmosphere: wow. The cenote-style, cave-like interior really adds a special ambiance to the whole affair. The food, traditional Oaxacan, lives up to the hype.

Zandunga
This one’s slightly different in its menu, with traditional foods from the Yucatan rather than Oaxaca. They certainly know how to do beef plates—be sure to order the ganachas.

EVERYDAY EATS

La Popular
Wouldn’t blame you if you went here every other day, as the menu is extensive. I had a chicken tortilla soup that truly soothed the soul and their tlayudas are perfect for even the least adventurous eaters.

Tacos Roy
Want tacos? Head here. You’ll get them in 5 minutes flat and they’re reliably delicious. Don’t bother trying to customize them—you can do that when the six different toppings come out to your table.

Tacos Alvaro
This is the spot for pozole, but there are plenty of other traditional Oaxacan foods (and tacos, naturally) to choose from too. Solid food, low prices.

Boulenc
On the outside, it’s just a pastry shop. On the inside, it’s a multicultural culinary hub. We sat up on the balcony seating, inside what felt like a jungle. Very cool atmosphere.

La Jicara
Vegetarians, this one’s for you! This spot strays from the norm in both menu and style. The courtyard seating is cute and surrounded by tiny shops and bookstores. Good food, too.

BARS

Selva
It’d be wrong if I didn’t start this list with Selva, the bar of my dreams. Right off the Alcala (the main pedestrian street in Centro), Selva’s 2nd-floor bar is so perfect. The greenery, the innovative drinks, the balcony looking right at Santo Domingo. The comfy couches, my goodness! We probably visited five times in two weeks. The waiters (I wish I was kidding) started recognizing us.

El Destilado
This terrace is one of the first places I visited for a drink back in 2020, and it’s still a great spot. The bartenders are knowledgeable, able to answer all the questions you might have about mezcal, the official liquor of the region.

Vaca Marino
Like Los Amantes, this spot—mostly a restaurant but I’ve enjoyed more than one cocktail there—overlooks Santo Domingo and quite a bit of Oaxaca. You can even see the lush green mountains in the distance.

Bar Ilegal
Americanos, this one’s for you. Bar Ilegal is very cool, though very obviously created by an American. Its branding is admirable, from a marketing perspective. Its drinks are good. But what made it for us was the fun live music.

McCarthy’s
ONLY GO to this bar for one thing: sports games. It’s pretty much the only place you can catch an American football game in Oaxaca. Otherwise… I mean, go for a laugh maybe. The main anecdote I can give about this “Irish pub” is that they played Bohemian Rhapsody *all the way through* twice in a row.

CAFÉS AND PASTRIES

Pan Con Madre
Listen: do not panic about the bees. They’re only swarming the pastries because Pan Con Madre’s breads are so sweet and delicious! They brush ’em off before you get your croissant anyways.

Boca del Monte
This terraced café offered one of the best views I had in Oaxaca. You can see the mountains dozens of miles away. Plus, it’s dead empty so it’s easy to work at (decent Wifi too!) or hang out in.

Cafebre
This is the ultimate spot for Spanish tutoring classes in Oaxaca. As I sat and worked, at least three 1-on-1 sessions were occurring around the courtyard. It’s a great atmosphere. The only downside is the very basic menu.

Café Brujula
Very similar to Cafebre, but less artsy and more serious in architecture. The courtyard is a great spot for people-watching too.

Oaxaca en una Taza
This café bumps up to Santo Domingo, a.k.a. it’s in the center of everything. They’re known for their dark and quiet dining area and delicious pastries to-go.

STREET FOOD

Cangreburgers
Or, roughly translated: Krabby Patties. Just ask for everything and you’ll be satisfied, I promise.

Elotes
Corn on the cob, smothered with mayo and tajin and cheese and more good things that I couldn’t even keep track of.

Marquesitas
Basically a hard, rolled wafer. This dessert originally came from the Riviera Maya, and I love it with Nutella and a banana inside.

Tacos del Carmen
Across the street from the main La Popular location, you’ll find an unassuming white tent setup. This is Tacos del Carmen. It’s a legendary institution in Oaxaca, even featured on TV shows abroad.

MARKETS

Mercado Sánchez Pascuas
Less touristy and much more local: that’s how you should start your explorations of Oaxaca’s markets. Mercado Sánchez is a bit smaller than the other Centro markets but arguably one of the best spots to pick up ingredients for your breakfast at home—or sit down in one of the booths for chilaquiles made right there.

Mercado de La Merced
Another option like Sánchez, but a bit bigger and on the east side of Centro (Sánchez is on the west).

Mercado Benito Juarez
Now you’re in the action! This large historical market is just a block off the Zócalo and has everything from fruits to fabric to fresh meat. Buy your souvenirs here or at the Zócalo easily. Quick note: make sure you’re bringing cash and coins to all these markets. Card is rarely accepted.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Another vibrant historical market, but more food-based than Benito Juarez.

Central de Abastos
This one should come with a bit of a warning. In this market, outside of Centro and the biggest in the city, you can find anything. Seriously—anything. Newborn puppies, handmade piñatas, and fresh pineapples might all be on the same line of stalls. It’s chaos. Watch for theft; it’s common at Abastos and some other markets.

CLUBS

Txalaparta
They called themselves a hookah bar, but Txalaparta could also be considered a dance club, an expat hostel bar, or a sports pub. Which is honestly wonderful, because the atmosphere changes every time you visit. Just depends on the timing and the crowd.

Nois
Ah, I wish this spot is still what it was in 2020. But unfortunately, Nois closed their top floor for dining instead of dancing. No worries though—the lower floor is still plenty of fun.

La QK
Less expat-y and more local than Txalaparta or Nois, La QK brings the music. Don’t bother asking the bar for anything special; you basically only get beers or shots. But it’s worth it for that dancefloor and the more private lounge above the dancefloor.

Archivo Maguey
Reggaetón fans, head here. It’s where Oaxacans and expats come to truly club (yes, as a verb).

HONORABLE MENTIONS

Restaurants
Tierra del Sol
Casa Oaxaca
El Escapulario

Bars
Gozobi
Fandango
La Mezcalerita
Sur al Norte
Pulquisima
Mezcal Los Amantes
Oaxaca Brewing Co.

Cafés
Onnno Loncheria
Plaza Don Pedro
Cafe Cafe de Oaxaca

BEYOND THE FOOD

El Zocálo—The main square and meeting point for Oaxaca Centro. Lined with restaurants and craft stalls

Museo Textil de Oaxaca—A museum full of textiles and art from the region

Jardín Etnobotánico—A botanical garden right next to Santo Domingo, tour required to enter

Monte Alban — A beautiful pre-Columbian archaeological site just a half hour away by bus

Hierve el Agua — A set of large natural pools and travertine rock formations, definitely a full day trip

That’s Oaxaca Consumed for you! What have I missed? Let me know, because I’ll be back in less than six months!

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Cheers,
Casey